The Ice Fall from Base Camp (the view we didn’t see when we set off!)
Brigantes Everest Expedition Day 13
Hard to believe, but we’ve spent a day on the mountain itself. I’m one of the “lucky” six, including our President, who are in the assault party (with six guides and porters on whom we rely for our lives). The other 14 of us are back at Base Camp, superficially disappointed but, perhaps, secretly relieved that they don’t have to dice with this dangerous monster.
In some ways, though, today hasn’t seemed like a climb of the highest mountain. We’ve been on the Khumbu Ice Fall (a glacier) all day clambering over moving rucked and fractured ice. Uphill but not rock climbing! Dangerous, though. And the start is steep, so we were roped and clipped together. It’s difficult to keep your feet and there are many crevasses to fall into. We started before dawn this morning with head lamps on to show us where we were treading. An early start is essential because the ice gets more dangerous as it melts – it gets slick and ice bridges weaken.
Dowting has been clucking round us like a mother hen and each of us has had a porter in close attendance to guide and support us. We soon understood why the practice with ice axes and crampons was important – they have saved us from many a dangerous slip and slide! And we were very soon out of breath. There really isn’t much oxygen here, no wonder we need breathing apparatus for higher up!
At the top of the first steep section we looked back and down onto Base Camp as we rested and then continued up. There are many aluminium ladders across crevasses that are tricky to master. They may not sound scary, but when you’re on one, looking down through the rungs at a drop into distant darkness, with only a loose rope either side for safety – well, then you’re not so certain it’s entirely safe!
As the day wore on and the sun rose we stopped freezing and started sweating. Often there were rumbles as snow and ice tumbled from the mountain sides onto the glacier. And the glacier throws up its own avalanche dangers. Often we passed under tall, pointed pillars of ice (seracs) and these have a habit of collapsing without warning. You don’t want to be near them when they do!
After that first steep section the glacier levels off a bit, then flattens, then gets steeper again in a stretch where there are a good many vertical ladders set to help the ascent. And, eventually after about six hours of gruelling work, it levels again and we arrive at Camp 1 near the base of the Western Cwm (tomorrow’s challenge).
What a day!
Luke N Brightside
Communications Officer
The Khumbu Ice Fall near Camp 1
That was the slowest, most worrying climb up to Camp 1 I’ve ever experienced. If we hadn’t individually nurse-maided the six old timers they’d never have got here. And this is nothing compared to what’s to come! Though, having said that I have to admit that the Khumbu claims more lives than almost anywhere else on the mountain. All we can do is take one day at a time and hope they see sense and turn back!
Sherpa Dowting
Head Porter
more Everest, but not as you know it !
more A summary of our virtual Everest trek
more Back At Base Camp, What A Relief !
more Despite everything our President has made it to the top of the world.
more Onward and upwards to the south col and camp four.
more About our friend in Nepal, Major Lil
more Held back again.
more Camp 3 rest day.
more Ever upwards !
more Here we are at Camp two.
more In the valley of silence.
more Not much to see through the whiteout.
more Climbing the Ice Fall
more Settling into base camp
more Finally reaching base camp.
more On to Gorak Shep
more Getting up amongst the real Himalayas
more Our yaks on the trail.
more Onwards to Dingboche.
more Onwards and upwards
more Leaving Namche
more A rest day in Namche
more We move on towards Namche
more Arriving at Luckla Airport
back We are staging a virtual climb of Mount Everest to raise money for Wellspring, Carers Resource and Covid relief. All the previous daily blogs can be read here.